End grain butcher block tops are built by fusing together the end pieces of wood rails into a classic checkerboard pattern. Edge grain butcher block tops feature parallel wood rails that span that length of the piece. Our edge grain butcher blocks feature full length wood rails with no unsightly butt ends or finger joints. They also feature a true flat surface and uniform thickness throughout. Our end grain butcher blocks are often the first choice of pro chefs because the end grain construction is the strongest and most durable. End grain butcher blocks are also easy on knives. During cutting or chopping, the end grain wood fibers absorb the impact of the knife blade; this keeps knives sharper longer and also helps prevent nicks and gouges, which extends the life of the butcher block top and also helps prevent bacteria from entering the wood. Both our end grain and edge grain butcher block tops are available in Walnut, Cherry, Lyptus and Hard Rock Maple.

Whats the difference between the varnique semi-gloss and natural oil finishes?

Many of our butcher blocks feature a food-safe natural oil finish that seals and protects the wood and provides an ideal cutting surface. Natural oil is the finish to choose if you intend to cut upon your butcher block directly. For natural oil finish butcher blocks, it is recommended that you re-oil the surface every 4 weeks or so using a pure white mineral oil that you can purchase at a regular grocery store or hardware store. You can easily bring the surface of your natural oil finish butcher block back to like-new appearance by sanding and re-oiling the surface. Varnique semi-gloss is a virtually maintenance free light gloss finish that also seals and protects the wood, but is not meant to be cut upon directly. Varnique semi-gloss is ideal for aesthetic applications, and it is also the finish of choice for bakers who intend to use their butcher blocks to roll dough. Varnique semi-gloss finished butcher blocks can be easily cleaned with mild soap and warm water. Varnique is resistant to most household detergents, though it is always best to avoid the use of harsh chemicals on your butcher block surface. Varnique semi-gloss finished butcher block tables, butcher block kitchen islands, and butcher block carts have a beautiful fine furniture look.

How do you clean a natural oil finish butcher block?

To clean a natural oil finish butcher block, first scrape loose with a steel scraper or spatula any heavy food particles or foreign matter that may have adhered to the butcher block surface. After brushing or scraping all loose particles from the butcher block surfaces, take a dish cloth dipped in soapy water, or water with a very mild detergent, and wash the butcher block surface as you would any other wood surface. Wash the dish cloth in clear warm water, wring it out, and go over the butcher block surface again. Finish up by taking a dry cloth and thoroughly drying the butcher block surface. Do not leave water sitting on the surface of your butcher block, as this may cause water spotting. If liquid is left sitting on your natural oil finish butcher block, and spotting does occur, you can renew the surface of your butcher block by sanding with heavy duty grit sandpaper and applying a generous coat of mineral oil.

How do you clean a varnique semi-gloss finish butcher block?

Varnique semi-gloss finished butcher blocks clean up easily with mild soap and warm water. Varnique is impervious to most household chemicals, though it is wise to avoid the use of harsh chemicals or harsh detergents that may damage the finish. Varnique, though less permeable to water than natural oil, is not impermeable; therefore, it is wise to clean up liquid spills on your butcher block counter as soon as they appear.

How often will I need to re-oil my oil finish butcher block?

For natural oil finish butcher blocks, we recommend that you re-oil all surfaces of your block every 4 weeks or so. Because butcher block wood is a live material, extremes of humidity and dryness can swell and shrink your butcher block enough to cause seasonal checks to appear. This possibility, though remote, is an unavoidable condition of enjoying the beauty of a living material. Real wood with a check is still prettier than Formica without one! Cracks filled with cellulose filler of the right tint become practically invisible. Still, you can help preserve your butcher block by keeping your home humidified in winter and by refreshing your butcher block every 4 weeks with a generous coating of natural mineral oil on all surfaces. You can use pure white mineral oil that you can purchase from a local hardware store or grocery store.

What are the butcher block counter edges like?

Our edge grain butcher block counters come standard with a straight 90 degree edge. The edge is not sharp to the touch, but rather is slightly eased.

How do I install my butcher block counter?

All our butcher block counters come with installation instructions. Installation is simple. Only minimal fixing is required, as the butcher block will be held down by self weight, plumping, etc. It is best to fix your butcher block into the same strip of wood at two fixing points. Fixing of your butcher block is best done through the underside of cabinet base framework via a 7/16” pre-drilled clearance hole and #10 gauge screw with a washer. To allow for natural expansion, your butcher block should never be glued down. Note: It is important that your butcher block counter have adequate ventilation, to prevent excessive moisture movement into the wood; therefore, do not attach your butcher block counter directly on top of solid underlayment, such as particle board of MDF tops; or, if you do, be sure to cut large holes in the underlayment so the butcher block can breathe. If you install your butcher block next to a brick wall, it is best to use a moisture barrier, such as plastic, and leave a slight air gap to prevent moisture transference.

Does the butcher block counter come with installation hardware and instructions?

Our butcher block counters come with installation instructions, but not with installation hardware. You can easily purchase the required installation hardware from your local hardware store.

Can I install my butcher block counter atop a solid underlayment?

It is best to install your butcher block counter over base cabinet framing, but not over solid underlayment, which would prevent proper ventilation.

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Should I use glue when installing my butcher block counter?

No. Wood is a live material and will expand and contract with changes in atmospheric conditions. Gluing your butcher block would interfere with the natural expansion and contraction of the wood and is therefore not recommended.

Can I cut my butcher block counter myself?

Yes, you can. In fact, many of our customers purchase standard sized butcher block counters and have them cut on site. If you cut your butcher block counter at home, or have your carpenter cut it for you, be sure to reseal your butcher block counter wherever youve cut it with at least 4 coats of sealer. Good sealing of your butcher block is essential to prevent abrupt and excessive moisture movement to and from the wood.

Can I get my butcher block counter with a sink or stove cut-out?

Although we are no longer offering sink/stove cut-outs, this is something you can easily do with edge grain counter tops on site. In fact, the majority of our customers prefer to purchase a standard-sized butcher block counter and have the cut-out done on site, either on their own, or by a carpenter. However, we do not recommend sink cut-outs for End Grain or Commercial-Grade counter tops, due to their construction. Since the pieces on these counter tops are smaller, cutting a sink or stove cut-out could compromise the integrity of the joints.

Can I Create a Sink or Stove Cut-Out in My End Grain Counter Top?

We do not recommend sink cut-outs for End Grain or Commercial-Grade counter tops, due to their construction. Since the pieces on these counter tops are smaller, cutting a sink or stove cut-out could compromise the integrity of the joints.

Can I put my butcher block counter above a dishwasher or oven?

Yes, you can, though it is important that your appliance be properly insulated to prevent excessive heat transfer to the butcher block.

How long will it take to get my butcher block countertop? To ensure the highest quality, our butcher block counters are all built to order. The normal lead time on standard cuts is 2-3 weeks.

Is my butcher block countertop waterproof? What happens if I get water on it?

Butcher block is a live natural material that is permeable to water. Natural oil finish butcher blocks will develop water spots if water is left standing on the surface. Varnique semi-gloss finish butcher blocks, though less permeable, will also spot and absorb water if water is left standing on the surface. On both natural oil finish butcher blocks and varnique semi-gloss finish butcher blocks, it is best to clear up water spills as soon as they occur. If water spots develop on the surface of natural oil finish butcher block, you can remove them by lightly sanding and re-oiling the surface, which will bring it back to like-new appearance.

How do I restore my butcher block countertop if it gets damaged or stained?

You can easily restore your natural oil finish butcher block by sanding with heavy duty grit sandpaper and re-oiling with pure white mineral oil, which you can purchase from a local hardware store or grocery store.

Can I use part of my butcher block counter as a breakfast bar? How far can my breakfast bar extend over my counter? Yes, you can have an overhang for a breakfast bar. On edge grain counters, the permissible length of overhang depends on how you install your butcher block counter. If your butcher block counter is installed so that the overhanging portion runs along the length of the piece, parallel to the wood rails, the maximum allowed overhang without additional bracket support is 8”; if placement that results in an overhang greater than 8”, the overhang must be supported underneath by brackets. If, however, your butcher block counter is installed so that the overhanging portion runs perpendicular to the length of the wood rails, the maximum allowed overhang is 12 inches, in this case, placement resulting in an overhang greater than 12 inches must be stabilized underneath by brackets.

Do your butcher block counters come with a warranty?

Yes, all our butcher block counters come with a 1-year warranty against any defects in materials and workmanship.

Other Useful Info

Types of Cutting Boards

End-Grain Cutting Boards

The best to be found and will meet the needs of the most discerning customer. More durable than regular cutting boards, these end-grain boards look beautiful on your countertop. An end-grain is a much harder surface and has a greater tolerance for the chopping motion. These boards give a truly resistant cutting surface while being kind to the blade’s sharp edge.

The old fashioned cutting boards were always end-grain design (the chopping block) for a reason, it keeps the knives much sharper. Instead of crushing against the wood fibers the blade goes between them much like cutting into a firm brush. You will find that your blade edges last much longer, and you'll see no knife marks on the board. When the individual boards of wood are arranged so that the grain of the wood runs vertically (up and down), this puts one end of each board up so that the cutting surface is actually the end of many individual pieces of hardwood. With the grain aligned in this manner (up and down), when the knife strikes the surface during cutting, the grain of the wood actually separates and then closes when the knife is removed. This accounts for the self-healing aspect of the end-grain surface. The wood itself is not cut, but instead you are cutting between the fibers.

Flat-Grain (Edge) Cutting Boards

One of the best-selling cutting boards for the kitchen - excellent value chopping board and the perfect companion in the kitchen. The majority of wood cutting boards you can buy today are flat grain design. The main reason for this is that they are significantly easier to manufacture.


Seasoning A Cutting Board

Before using a new butcher block, season it to prevent staining and absorption of food odors and bacteria. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth on both new and older boards. The wood surface needs an oil that can be repeatedly applied to fill the wood pores and repel food particles, liquids, and oils. Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish a cutting surface, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor.

* USP-grade mineral oil is a popular choice as it is the cheapest pure food-grade oil you can buy (do not use vegetable oil or olive oil because they can turn rancid). Mineral oil remains safe throughout its life. There are various oils available for cutting boards and butcher blocks. Some are called "Butcher Block Finishes" or "Mystery Oil." Save some money by visiting the local hardware or drug store and purchasing Mineral Oil. (not mineral spirits - that is paint thinner).

When you see the words "food safe finish" in a description of a wood product, this generally means mineral oil has been used. Simply wipe mineral oil on the surface of your board and watch it soak in. When the wood won't take any more oil, you can wipe off the excess with a clean dry cloth. Don't worry about applying too much oil - more is better.

* Beeswax is often added to mineral oil and walnut oil to give a tougher finish. The wax of bees has been used for centuries for waterproofing and sealing materials from baskets to cloth and for preserving foods and other perishable materials, including wood. It will make wood water-resistant (though not water-proof) and will help protect the wood surface from use and wear. It will also give a wood surface a nice smooth feel to the touch and leave a gentle, sweet fragrance. Simply shave about 1/2 teaspoon beeswax into a microwave safe dish with a cupful of mineral oil; microwave on high for about 45 seconds. Apple to the cutting board or butcher block while still warm. Save or dispose of the remainder of the oil.

Beeswax Top Coat - A beeswax top coat is an optional addition to the re-finishing process, but is well worth the time. The beeswax sits on the surface of the wood in contrast to the oil that soaks into the wood. As a result the beeswax fills in pores and gaps that thin oil can't bridge. This helps to keep moisture, bacteria, and other contaminants from getting into the wood surface. To apply the finish, simply wipe it on with a clean cloth. The beeswax is a soft paste that has a similar consistency to that of a shoe polish. Excess finish can be easily buffed off with the cloth. Once the finish has had some time to dry it can be buffed to a shine.

* Walnut or Almond Oil. These are all-natural oils and are one of the few oils that do not turn rancid as easily as other oils. However, all vegetable oils will go rancid eventually. I, personally, don't recommend using these oils. These oils are available in grocery stores and some mail order woodworking supply stores. NOTE: If anyone in your family has an allergy to nuts or nut products, do not use these oils.

Apply oil with a soft cloth, in the direction of the grain, allowing the oil to soak in between each of the four or five coats required for the initial seasoning. After each treatment, wait about four to six hours and wipe off oil that did not soak into the wood (oxidation or hardening of the oil will take approximately 6 hours). Re-oil the butcher block weekly or as often as needed.

________________________________________ Maintaining and Sanitizing Cutting Boards Caution must be taken when using any type of cutting board. Here are some safety tips to keep in mind: * Whichever kind of cutting board you use, all cutting boards should be cleaned and sanitized frequently. Some of the various techniques recommended for cutting boards are as follows (you decide which is best):

Hot water and soap - Scrub board with hot water and soap. Rinse and dry thoroughly. NOTE: NEVER submerge cutting boards in a sink of water! Wood is porous and will soak up water causing the cutting board to crack when it dries.

Vinegar - To disinfect and clean your wood cutting boards or butcher block countertop, wipe them with full-strength white vinegar after each use. The acetic acid in the vinegar is a good disinfectant, effective against such harmful bugs as E. coli, Salmonella, and Staphylococcus. Vinegar is especially good for people with chemical allergies. Keep a spray bottle of undiluted vinegar handy for easy cleaning and sanitizing.

Hydrogen Peroxide - 3% hydrogen peroxide can also be used as a bacteria-killer. To kill the germs on your cutting board, use a paper towel to wipe the board down with vinegar, then use another paper towel to wipe it with hydrogen peroxide.

Bleach - Sanitize both wood and plastic cutting boards with a diluted chlorine bleach or vinegar solution consisting of one teaspoon of liquid chlorine bleach in one quart of water or a one to five dilution of vinegar. Flood the surface with a sanitizing solution and allow it to stand for several minutes, then rinse and air dry or pat dry with paper towels.

* All cutting boards, and other food surfaces, should be kept dry when not in use. Resident bacteria survive no more than a few hours without moisture. Keep moisture of any type from standing on the block for long periods of time. Beware of moisture collecting beneath the board if you leave it on the counter. If you can, prop one end up when not using your board.

* To eliminate garlic, onion, fish, or other smells from your cutting board,:

Coarse salt or baking soda - Rub the board with course salt or baking soda. Let stand a few minutes and wipe salt or baking soda from board, and then rinse. You may need to re-season after rinsing your cutting board/chopping block.

Lemon - Another very easy technique is to rub fresh lemon juice or rub a cut lemon over the surface of the cutting board to neutralize onion and garlic odors. You may need to re-season after rinsing your cutting board/chopping block.

Vinegar - Keep a spray bottle of undiluted vinegar handy for easy cleaning and sanitizing. You may need to re-season after rinsing your cutting board/chopping block.

* Use a good steel scraper or spatula often when using the board. Scraping removes 75% of the moisture that builds up on a wooden cutting board. An occasional sanding will return a wooden board to a smooth luster. But never scrub a wooden board with a steel brush (a steel brush will ruff up the finish and should be avoided).

* Wooden boards need oiling or reseasoning once a week to seal the grain against bacteria. An oil finish helps to prevent the wood from cracking or pulling apart at the seams.

* Before applying oil to butcher block, warm the oil slightly. Apply oil with a soft cloth, in the direction of the grain, allowing the oil to soak in. Allow oil to soak in a few minutes, then remove all surface oil with a dry, clean cloth. When applied, mineral oil seals the pores of the wood blocking the penetration of moisture.

* When refinishing a butcher block, you may wish to sand the surface of the wood to remove old stains, scratches and marks. When sanding out kicks and scratches, remember that if you don't sand the top evenly you will end up with "hills" and "valleys" in the top.